Wednesday, April 30, 2014

Home sewn a designer ready to wear jacket

I finally finished my designer jacket.  The inspiration jacket is made with a tweed, which I wanted but couldn't find in a stripe I like. My jacket is made from a suit weight wool/rayon with a vertical stripe. I had to cut it on the cross grain, which worked great. It also has bias cuts on the back, front and sleeves.
I love my new jacket, the fit is amazing and it is very comfortable. The sleeves are the greatest. The slim arm is perfect.
I did have a problem with the collar. It didn't sit right on my neck and I had to redo the entire thing, ripping out the edge stitching and top stitching was pretty hard to do with black on black, thread and fabric. I got it done and altered the collar shape to hug my neck better and redid it.
I used a Lekala pattern for the basic shape and fit but altered every single pattern piece. I first taped all the pieces together then redrew what I wanted changed cut it out and added seam allowances.
I love Lekala patterns because they fit so well and because I can add my own seam allowances. I use various sizes so I don't have to trim seams. I always use 1/4 for collars and neck edge, 1/2 for sleeves and if I have seams for detail they get 1/4 also. I use 1in. for zippers and 1 or 5/8 for body. Makes it easy for me.

Designer Inspiration

I really enjoyed making this jacket.
For the zipper bands I sew the zipper to the bands before I sew the bands to the jacket front. I then turn under the seam allowances on the facing and front bands, slip the lining under them and edge stitch the whole thing in place. Worked great. I did the same technique for the jacket lower band. I will be using this for everything I sew that has bands. So accurate and less stitching. I do make all seam allowances with chalk and thread trace them, sure makes sewing more accurate.

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